Step Three: Flaps

Heavily starched webbing is cut, the very tip is folded back and glued with fabric-tac, then the corners are folded and glued.  Then, slowly and using the hand wheel of the sewing machine, the flaps are sewn down giving the distinctive triangle stitching. The lift the dot receivers were added here basically round rings with studs – I am not satisfied with this item yet so won’t comment more. These flaps will be sewn in during the next section.

Step Four:  The Pouches

While all previous sections were made from webbing, the pouch sections were all canvas cloth.  Most U.S. gear has, if you have a mint example and look, sewing patterns printed directly onto the work pieces.  This is actually a very helpful idea, both for the 1940s factory worker and the miniaturist of today.  By laying out fold marks, cut marks, and sewing guides and grommet locations (JUST LIKE THE REAL THING), assembly can be much more consistent and results superior.  Even the logos can be added at this point. Also, you can test the pattern by printing it on paper.

Once the design is finalized, basic fabric printing gets the design onto the cloth.

The six individual pouches benefit from the same technique – this allowed for better results than my former measure, mark, measure approach.  I actually have 6 very nice and completely wrong pouches in my “seconds” box now.  This method gives great consistency!  Using the guidelines, the corners can be sewn accurately and the characteristic face stitching on the fronts can be achieved.

Once the design was established and printed, it was fairly straightforward to assemble the pockets, attaché them to the backer section, (following the U shaped lines – if they show, it’s OK, it is AUTHENTIC!) and then join all together, including the flaps constructed earlier. 

The lower hanging eyelets were inserted, using the previous method. 

Step Five: Lift The Dots closures          

Another very distinctive feature of U. S. gear are the metal snaps known as Lift The Dot.  These snaps have a post and a round receiving plate which has small internal spring catches.  I have tried many methods for creating these and have settled on this one, which uses supplies at hand and looks (as well as measures out) extremely close to the original.  A center eyelet is fed through from the back, using a washer to support and prevent pull through.  A ring from a larger gauge eyelet, cut off from the shaft, is then fitted onto the front.  This mechanically secures the hardware, but a drop of glue helps.  Then the head of a brass pin is inserted in the top and glued.  (I used to solder such items but after you’ve spent hours / days making something and then you burn a huge hole in it, you say “FORGIVE ME!  I have to use glue!)

Step Six – Final assembly.

After all the parts are finished,

all that remains is a single stitch attaching the top of the pouch assembly to the belt assembly, top grommets, and a U.S. stamp on one flap.  Of course, I’ve misplaced my perfect U.S. logo rubber stamp, so I’ll be ordering another soon.  Also still to come will be cast metal BAR magazines, I will have a real one soon to reference.